I was at my local car show the other day and I talked with a guy who built an inline Chevy 6 for his street rod. I was interested in the engine because it’s different. I’m getting tired of seeing small-block Chevys and LS engines everywhere.

I don’t know much about these engines. Are they worth building for a mild rat rod?J.L.Jeff Smith: There is a whole subculture of hot rods out there running around with “alternative” engines. While most street rods built before WWII were Flathead-powered inline fours and later V8 Fords, Chevrolet was always considered a very conservative company with inline six-cylinder engines with overhead valves. The biggest drawback to an inline six is its physical length and it will be smaller in displacement because it only has six cylinders. But for a lightweight street rod with an open engine bay, a could be a great engine. We’ll go over some material for the Chevy 6 as it’s the most popular– but the AMC, Ford, Pontiac OHC 6, Mopar slant six, and Jeep engines are other obvious candidates.If you’re into a dramatic-looking engine, consider the Pontiac Overhead Cam (OHC) inline six that came in the 1966-67 Tempest and 1967 Firebirds.

These engines are very modern looking with the factory ribbed cam and front timing belt covers. There was power with this engine as well–in 1967 the 230-cubic-inch Pontiac OHC 6 was rated at 215 horsepower with 240 ft.-lbs. of torque, a Rochester Q-jet four-barrel carb, and 10.5:1 compression. There are parts available for these engines, although usable core engines are becoming scarce.As we mentioned earlier, Chevy has built overhead valve inline sixes since 1929, but we will deal with only the later model engines used from 1962. This lineage of Chevy inline six came in four different bore/stroke/displacement combinations:, and cubic inches. The largest was used only in Chevy pickups because of its taller deck height.

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The deck height allowed a very long 4.12-inch stroke compared to 3.25 for the 230, which is probably the most common of the Chevy sixes that you’ll find. The 230-cubic-inch engine came in mid-1960s passenger cars like the Chevy II, Camaro, Chevelle, and some full-size cars as well. It was rated at 140 horsepower with a one-barrel and 155 horsepower with a two-barrel carburetor and 8.5:1 compression.All early Chevy six engines place the intake and exhaust manifolds on the driver side of the engine. This is not the optimal placement for the intake since the exhaust puts lots of heat directly into the intake manifold, which hurts power.

But the good news is there are lots of parts available for these engines. Offers a, several companies grind cams, and there are headers available. Keep in mind that most headers will be designed for pickups and it’s probable that they may need tweaking to fit other chassis.One odd thing about the Chevy six is its paired intake ports.

Three common ports feed all six cylinders. Worse yet, a head bolt boss intrudes into these ports, restricting flow. We discovered a small company in Iowa called AutoWerks (12bolt.com), owned by Tom Lowe.

Lowe has spent several decades working on these little six cylinders. He has developed a part called The Lump.

You can always go in Wineskin.app - Advanced on the Config tab and select the correct exe file as well.You may want to go through the Neverball tutorial at the end. Step by step and make it, it will get you familiar with the basic concepts for Wineskin. This would be the same main executable file that you could double click in Windows to run the program. Default locations are usually best to install to, or as long as its somewhere on C: which is the 'drivec' folder in the wrapper.Is the 'Invalid Property Value' message like a normal Mac pop up window, or does it look like its from the actual Windows program your trying to run?If you getting the actual program to start running (even if only for a second), then we need to start looking at Wineskin's logs and not console. After using Install Windows Software button, or anytime with the Test Run button, it will make log files you can open with the button to view them on the Tools tab. Winqsb for windows 7.

Its name is descriptive, if not necessarily attractive. Lowe’s approach was to remove the large cast iron boss that surrounds the stock head bolt. He then spot faces the bottom of the port for an Allen head bolt and places an aluminum cover (The Lump) over the Allen bolt head to improve airflow.

The conversion can be done on your workbench and the increase in airflow is significant enough to reward the effort. You can check out an installation video and all the particulars on Lowe’s website. Lowe also offers a new intake called the P.E.S. Ram that is about the best looking Chevy inline intake I’ve seen.For power, a mild street V8 will make roughly 1.1 hp per cubic inch with stock heads. The heads on these older Chevy six cylinders are not very good so making 1.1 is about the most you can expect. With a 230-cubic-inch inline six with a, and the cylinder head work we’ve described, you could expect to make around 250 to perhaps 260 horsepower. Because the inline six crankshaft is so long, even with 7 main bearings it’s probably not a good idea to spin these engines much beyond 6,000 rpm.Overall, internal parts are readily available and they’re not overly expensive so you could assemble a decent performance street inline Chevy six without draining your bank account.

It might be a fun adventure and surely one to garner more attention than just another small-block. Author:Jeff Smith has had a passion for cars since he began working at his grandfather's gas station at the age 10. After graduating from Iowa State University with a journalism degree in 1978, he combined his two passions: cars and writing.

Smith began writing for Car Craft magazine in 1979 and became editor in 1984. In 1987, he assumed the role of editor for Hot Rod magazine before returning to his first love of writing technical stories. Since 2003, Jeff has held various positions at Car Craft (including editor), has written books on small block Chevy performance, and even cultivated an impressive collection of 1965 and 1966 Chevelles. Now he serves as a regular contributor to OnAllCylinders. A.040″ over 230, 250, of 292 Chevy — if the opening for the water pump is about 3/8″ to 1/2″ or so from the top of the block, then it’s one of the smaller two,if it’s maybe an inch or more then it’s the 292.if the piston is dished then it can only be a 250 or the 292230’s are the lower deck height blocks with flat top pistons. The 250 is the lower deck height block with dished pistons, and the 292 is the only raised deck height block, and it has dished pistons–all of this is assuming the pistons are standard replacement configuration, not hotrod parts. Ask your buddy how did his perfectly balanced “street six” like life at 6000 rpm?

Due part to inherent inline design balancing can be dead on, but with the longer inline’s crankshafts they will experience “torsional vibrations” as these long cranks see themselves being twisted by the firing cylinders along their length and rebounding from it. Old Jags, other British sixes, and earlier American sixes “enjoyed” this “phenomenon” by vibrating flywheel bolts loose and harmonic balancers OFF.longer the crank-less the main bearing countthe more crank vibes–the Chevy 292’s and Ford 300’shave real problems at 6 grand–some Brit motors have them at lower AND multiple rpm ranges and sometimes while on the highway a gear change is required or just a simple speed change to solve this damaging situation. Ford did put the 300 6’s in trucks, however, back in the day, the dealer would swap around engines to make the buyer happy.

My parents bought a 66 Ranch Wagon (Galaxy wagon) new, came from the facotry with a 289. Pop wanted the economy of the 6 so the dealer pulled one from an F100 and dropped it in the wagon and stuck the 289 in the F100. That 300 inline six was pretty stout, I drove the car through HS and surprised quite a few people with how quick it was, and it would pull our boat effortlessly. This is a little bit out of my area of knowledge, but essentially you are building a restrictor plate engine. I would do research around that, but right off the start, I’d run as much compression as you can – assuming that you are allowed a fuel that will not detonate. Compression adds power everywhere. I would also choose the thinnest rings I can afford – thinner is better – they seal better and drastically reduce friction – which is free horsepower.

Since the 1 bbl carb will limit ariflow, I would look at maximizing cam timing within the rpm limit – probably 5,000 rpm. If for example, the engine speed is from 3,000 to 5,000 then obviously that’s where you would concentrate with cam timing. I would also flow test the head to see where maximum flow is attained and then place valve lift above that to maximize the time the valve is flowing. Also check for valvetrain deflection – how much lift are you losing.

Check lift with a solid lifter and checking spring and compare that to the actual lift with the actual spring. The inline 6 uses a very long pushrod – almost 10 inches. Long pushrods tend to bend easily – so its’ worth investing in at least a 5/1`6 pushrod with a 0.105-inch wall thickness.

That alone might be worth 0.010-inch of reclaimed valve lift – perhaps more. This also means running good rockers if they are legal and optimizing pushrod length for ideal geometry. These are just a few ideas to get you started.

I would also spend a lot of time blueprinting the shortblock to create optimal clearances. Back in the 70’s I bought a 1963 nova from an older guy who had bought it new. It had a bad 194 cube 6. I rebuilt a 250 cube 6 and used the 194 head to raise the compression, bored it 30 over, installed a mild comp cam, and the 250 HEI.It purred like a kitten. The nova had an air cooled powerglide transmission and 3.08 gears in the rearend. I put a bigger jet in the one barrel 250 carb, and used the 250 intake and exhaust manifolds with full length exhaust pipe and hush thrush muffler. The nova with run an honest 120 MPH on top end.

A stock small block with a 2 barrel carb could not catch me. Even some big blocks in the full size cars took over a mile to catch me from a dead stop! Those were the days. Hey everyone, I’m working on 1980 C30 custom deluxe Chevy with the 4.8l straight 6 292 engine. For the past three days I’ve been going crazy looking for the secondary air injection manifold. I can find any other piping for v style engines but once I look into these straight six’s forget about it.

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So can some one please help me with either a diamond in the rough parts place or the info on best way to fabricate a new one. I’d personally eliminate the air/smog unit and pipes and plug the intake but were trying to rebuild it to complete orginality. If anyone can help me out I’d be greatly appreciative. My email is thank you and god bless.

Build the 6 Dave! That 350 will probably make about 300hp as it is.

You can get the 250 close to 300hp fairly easy. The key is a good valve job, lumps in the intake ports, a 4 bbl intake and 450 or 500 cfm carb, headers and a decent cam with about 210.- 220. duration.If the 250 has flat top pistons, great. If not cast or hyperutectic flat tops will work to about 5800-6000 rpms.Good rod bolts should be used too.This will make a good streetable engine that will sound good and run great in your truck. If your running an automatic trans, a small stall converter (2200-2400) will help add to your fun. Hi Guys, I have a 1955 Chevy truck with a 1980’s 4.1 Chev straight 6. I do not have a lot of info on the motor, but I’m battling with timing.

The carb has been rebuild too. I had it with a mechanic that did a bunch of tests. She has a compression ratio of 10.5 and according to the mechanic a wild cam as well. She is a 3 deg retarded now and running but has run on and a bit of pinging when pressed to hard. Is an fuel additive my best option? Colder plugs?

Any advise will be great. I’m based in South Africa so my resources to spares are limited to the currency exchange.

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